Brawny's Appalachian Trail Journal

On March 12th, 2002, I began my northbound Appalachian Trail thru hike on Springer Mountain, in Georgia. On August 14th of that same summer, I reached Mt.Katahdin, in Baxter State Park, Maine.

It was an unforgetable journey, meeting many new friends, encountering rattlesnakes, bears, wild animals and tame deer. There was pain, and suffering, incredible joy in the freedom of the trail, and introspection that comes with much time alone. You can read the entire account in the book My Journey to Freedom and Ultralight Backpacking.

TrailQuest / My Homepage

If I knew then what I know now, I dont know if I would play. -- from My Story, by Michael Jordon

Michael also said "I can't accept not trying." That's what this is all about. There are no guarentees. But when a person puts all their energy and soul into their goal, anything is possible.

Gear List and Itinerary

Springer, GA to Damascus

March 12-
It started raining last night, but still I felt it was time to begin. Rainmaker drove me up to the Springer trailhead, via Forest Service Road 42. This is a 15-mile gravel road, and it saved me the 7-mile approach trail. He hiked with me up through the mud, and mist to the plaque, and took photos. Reality began setting in. We hiked back to the parking lot. "I'll see you Saturday night, I'll call you from Neels Gap," I told my life partner. Rainmaker took a last photo, as I set off into the woods. I couldn't look back.

My goal was Hawk Mountain shelter, 7.6 miles away. In the rain, there was no sense stopping, just kept a steady pace. My sandaled feet were muddy and wet, sliding at times, gripping the trail with my hiking poles. Yet, they were warm and happy. Last fall's injury on the PCT was nearly forgotten.

Reached the shelter by 5:30, which was packed. Large colorful tents filled the area. I found a small spot and set up my Tacoma tent.

March 13-
On trail by 7 a.m. after packing up in a light drizzle. I slept warm, even with the constant rain and considerable condensation. The price is paid for a single wall ultra light silnylon tent. One can’t always stay dry, but they can still be warm. A camp towel wipes up the moisture.

Ate lunch at the new Gooch Gap shelter. I hiked in, and thought at first I was seeing some fancy weather station cables, and satellite dishes. Strange, out here at this place. Met two young men, on spring break. Enjoyed conversing with them. On the way out, I realized....Bear Cables! Not weather station apparatus!

My left knee had begun hurting this morning, and progressively worsened. It felt good on the uphill so I took advantage of that to make time. Passed Woody Gap, the chance to get out at the little town of Suches. By evening however body negotiations were in progress. "If you will just get us to a campsite, I will give you a massage...The only way to get out of this mess is to Hike. Com’on, we are a Team! Lets work together." As I neared the gap before Woods Hole, voices were heard. Two guys and a woman were enjoying the clearing skies, and setting up their tents. "Plenty of room!" Spitz called, and I was home for the night. About 15.5 miles. Enjoyed the evening chatting with my new friends Stray Cat, Spitz and Matt.

March 14-
On trail by 6:40, determined to call home by noon. 8 miles to Neels Gap. Immediately my left knee began to hurt. Now the uphills hurt as well. The sun rose as I climbed up to Slaughter Gap. A gorgeous morning, the kind that pays back a thousand times the previous days miseries.

Some how, no matter how slow I went, or how much care I took, nothing but keeping my left knee absolutely straight would stop the excruciating pain. It became agonizing climbing Blood Mountain. I knew I must change something. I could not go on like this. A new concern held my attention. Would I even be able to hike down? If I could at least get to Neels Gap, it would give me a chance to go home, get healed, and resume the hike. Arrived about 11:45. Talked to Rain on the phone, and we are pretty sure these sandals are not working for me. I will take a week to 10 days off to repair this ligament, get new trail runners. The season is early, and there is time. Again, the trail gods ask me “How much do you really want this?” And I answer them, “I know this is my time, and my season”.

Found and kept: fleece gloves, plastic garbage bag (new but wet) 3 pennies, a short cinch strap with buckle.

Found but left: home knit cap, unopened can of Corned Beef hash, two bottles of water, gripping gloves, some plastic clueless thing with retractable rope.

Wednesday, March 27-
Rainmaker dropped me off at Neels Gap around 10:30. I was very uncertain as to how my knees would respond to the trail. Hiking slow and deliberately, a few people passed me. My intention was to camp just north of Hog Pen Gap. Arriving there just after 4p.m. and feeling fine, I hiked on. The sun began to set, the moon rose on my right as I walked a crest. The wind turned cold and I decided to forego night hiking and camped. Very windy, but slept well. 10 miles. Respectable.

March 28-
Early rising became a habit soloing last year. Seems I am right back at it. Packed up and on trail by 7 a.m. Arrived at Low Gap amongst a virtual city of tents, dogs, weekenders and thru hikers. Picked up water there, headed out. Yesterday at Neels I met AT Rookie and Part Time. They are a neat couple who swapped a gear show-and-tell with me as they did laundry there. Anyways, they waved as I passed this morning. Fast hikers, they passed me meandering along, saying “See you at Tray”.

Originally planned to do these 36 miles in 4 days, taking the time to let my knees readjust. But, feeling strong, and meeting up with Robin, Alan, and Lambkins, that very fine hiking mode set in. Miles flew by as we chatted about transcontinental biking, gear weights, and designs. Lunched at Blue Mountain Shelter, and pressed on.

As I rounded Rocky Mountain, groups of fire fighters, clad in helmets and bright yellow jackets were sitting on logs. One man stood talking on his cell phone "Yeah, I‘m on some mountain in Georgia”. A group of six stopped me as I hiked past alone. “Where you heading?” one asked. “To Maine,” I replied. Mouths fell open. “Hunh? Can I take your picture?” I enjoyed a conversation with them, telling them, much to their surprise, that they were sitting on the Appalachian Trail. “Yeah, I heard about that on Dateline,” one nodded to his friend seated next to him.

Gauging progress, I headed onward. Tray Mountain is a spectacular site. Several roads lead near it, accessible by truck. The wind blows nonstop there, rising up over the cliff. I pulled in to shouts of recognition."Brawny! You made it” So wonderful to hear your name called by new friends. I set up the tent, changed, got water, cooked, and went for a chat in the shelter. Darkness put us to bed, as a sweet full moon rose. A solid 15.5 miles today. Not too shabby.

March 29-
On trail before sunrise, trekking for Dicks Creek Gap. One whole day ahead of schedule, AT Rookie promised to call Rain and ask him to pick me up there for resupplies and a couple days off. The day proved warm, and shedding clothes trailside takes finesse. Find a sheltered spot…well, as good as possible. Look both ways. Look some more as one sheds socks, shoes etc. Oopsey, here comes two men in total camo. A big, long gun. “You men out on maneuvers? “ I ask. He whispers some response. “Pardon me?” I reply. Another whispered answer. “Excuse me?” I still don’t catch it. “We are turkey hunting!” he says aloud. The man and his son walk past. “Ya hear any gobbling?” “No Sir,” I respectfully reply. Whew…finish swapping out clothes and back on trail.

Lunched at Deep Gap. I will pull into Dicks Creek by 2:30. This gives me time to chat with other hikers as they pass by, go to hitch into Hiawassee, and meet an older gentleman who hands me his card. He is a trail angel. Definitely. Stays to chat while I worry aloud that Rain didn’t get the message and I will have to spend the night there. But he offers the consolation he will help me whatever way he can. All worrying fades as Rain drives up. Having hiked the AT in 1992, he knows all about thru hikers. Two cold sodas await. Pizza Hut and AYCE salad bar in Clayton. Hiked 11 miles today.

March 30-31–
Spent washing clothes, making minor modifications to gear, resupplying.

April 1-
Dicks Creek Gap to Bly Gap is Rainmaker’s Trail District for the GATC. I maintain the last section, beginning .7 mile before Bly. Having hiked this section so many times, it brought a sense of nostalgia, belonging, and familiarity. I knew where the water was, and how far till Bly. I silently named off each section maintainer while walking through their section. Every loose rock and twig on the trail was a personal affront, and so removed them. Reached Bly by 3 p.m. so decided to go for Muskrat Creek Shelter.

No one had prepared me for the serious climb out of there. Blood Mountain is no comparison. Up, with a vengeance. But, so lovely once there, and the effort repaid. Met Badger, a fellow thru hiking from Virgina. He is renown for having the heaviest pack at Neels Gap. Weighing in at 87 pounds, and reportedly giving stuff away on the approach trail, he hauled a reputed 100 pounds from home. He sent over 40 pounds home from Neels, he told me.

Arriving at the shelter, and picking up water, we elected to hike a bit further. The shelter was full of guys, in camo, and no flat ground remained. 11. 6 miles. Feeling strong, ready.

April 2-
On trail by 6: 30 and witnessed a lovely sunrise. Hiked through forests of rhododendron and then open sections of the horseshoe that is Standing Indian. Went up to the Standing Indian Shelter, to sign in, read the register, and get a privacy break. There I met Chilly Willy, vacationing from Florida. She is a member of the Women's Hiking List. We traded pleasantries, caught up on list news, and enjoyed some girl time. It’s rare to see a woman right now. It’s a different kind of chat, and precious.

Many groups of south bounding youth groups passed this afternoon. I stand to one side as they pass, and feel the scrutiny, and a bit of wonder from the teenagers. They use external frame packs, usually appearing very heavy. I am all in black, and have many times been mistaken for a bear, or not seen at all.

Hiked to Carter Gap Shelter, where the old shelter stands on the left side of the trail(and the water is there, to the right of that old shelter). Then a bit farther up is the new, much larger one. A deck has been built beneath it to harbor hikers in need. Many hikers were there, all men, everyone a gentleman, and friendly. I am the only ultralighter here, and my homemade gear receives a lot of attention. My pack is passed around for a test lift, and exclamations of various sorts follow. They go to look at my Tacoma Tent. Hiked 12 miles until 4 p.m, We have plenty of time to relax and enjoy the evening. I stretch, and the soreness in my knees seems to dissipate. We watch each other cook on the table, and trade stories. This comradeship is marvelous.

April 3-
Rain and I had set a date for tonight, at 4 p.m. at Rock Gap, so of course I rise with first light and am on trail by 6:20. The trail is beautiful, smooth, and well graded. Feeling terrific, my pace begins to return. The synchronized motion of polling and stepping is invigorating. How I love it! Reached Albert Mountain within 3 hours. A two mph pace. Sweet. There I have promised myself a Type 4 Break.

Breaks may be classified as:
Type 1= a pee break (may or may not remove pack)
Type 2= pee break, drink water, and eat a snack (may or may not remove pack)
Type 3= remove pack, sit down, remove shoes, eat, drink, and pee (about 15-20 minutes)
Type 4= all of type 3, over the course of an hour, many take this time to air dry tents, sleeping bags, and socks.
Type 5=involves sleep, and all of the above

As I hike alone, and near Albert’s Mountain, the bladder begins demanding a Type 1.

The knees chime in “Excuse me, we could use a 3, at the Very Least!”

"Hello? Who do you think have pounded the dirt for 3 hours straight? We demand a Type 4!” the feet have made themselves heard.

“Ok, ok, everyone shut up, and when we hit that mountaintop, there’s a privy and Serious Type 4 coming! Work with me on this!!” I guess that came from the brain, which many times knows nothing at all.
If you ever see a soloist break out laughing, that’s probably what went on. Totally uncivilized, and reverting back to Trail animal. It’s not civilized to allow body parts to negotiate privately, and I will have no part of it. Talk to me, now.

Arrived at Rock Gap by 1:30 p.m. Snacked, and had show- and- tell with the youth group there waiting for their shuttle to be completed and start their hike. The homemade pack is a dead give away, and I take great pleasure in mouths gaping when demonstrating the mittens sewn on the rain jacket, and the “tool kit” that has two photons, a razor knife, can opener, and watch, weighing just 40 grams, or about an ounce and a half. I pull out the cook set that nests so neatly in my pot. They marvel and pass around the soda can stove, remarking “how tight” this is. The new jargon. How Tight. Yeah.
Hiked an easy 12 miles.

April 5-
Yesterday was a very restful zero day at home. Arrived at Rock Gap parking lot by 9 a.m. and hiked until evening. It began to get quite chilly, and so with the couple I met descending from Wayah Bald pressed on until we found a little sheltered cove. 15 miles.

Almost everyone I meet is having some knee problems, wearing a brace, or taking the down hills slow. Several have bought hiking poles, and are learning the ways they can benefit.

I want to give special thanks to Rainmaker, who helped me rehabilitate my knees after the injury at the beginning of my thru hike. He taught me so many knee saving strategies for hiking, as well as exercises and proper body mechanics. He played a major roll in saving my hike this year. (To see a page showing his hiking mechanics click here ) .

April 6-
Left the tent door open much of the night to help reduce condensation, but after midnight it became so bitterly cold I closed it. At daybreak, made coffee, ate a cold breakfast of granola and packed up. Shaking the frost out of my tent, and hiked off into a beautiful sunrise. The wind blew icy cold gusts through the gaps and ridges, so I kept on nearly all my clothes, including the silnyon rain suit. It has proved to be a lifesaver so many times.

Met Go Back, and some day hikers later that day. With a Wesser Burger and call home as incentive, I kept hiking, with few breaks. Got into NOC before 4. It was opening season weekend, and the place was alive with kayakers, fancy trucks, hikers and tourists. On top the switchbacks looking down, the same feelings encountered on the PCT returned; overwhelming stimuli and apprehension. On the edge of “town” I found a phone, called home, and crossed the bridge. “Brawny!!” a woman sitting behind the Backpacker Magazine information table called my name. I looked, startled. It was Amy, and her husband Brent, who were on a countrywide tour for Backpacker's “Get Out More” Campaign. We hugged, thrilled to see each other. Last year, we had hiked the Pacific Crest Trail together. An incredible adventure shared with these two precious friends, and here they were! We caught up on hiker news, friends from last year, and what they were each up to. Other AT hiker friends Charlie Foxtrot, Rich, and Fletch were in town, and came over to chat. And to think I worried about this confusion! Spent the night in a bunk, inside with Amy and Brent, with a great supper at the fancy restaurant on the hill. Great evening.

And yes, the Wesser Burger and fries are a definite for all who pass that way. Absolutely wonderful. I had no trouble eating it all, shortly after arriving. Had to get some coffee, and save room for supper. The hiker hunger has struck last night. 16 miles.

April 7-
We turned the clocks ahead last night, for Daylight Savings Time. It really means nothing at all to long distance hikers, except what time the clock says it will get dark. Now I have until 8 p.m. to reach my destination, Brown Fork Gap Shelter. Another 16 miles.

On trail by 7, walked along munching on an apple and snickers bar, just enjoying the morning briskness. Climbing out of that river valley, up to Cheoah Bald took all morning. Then, of course, I had met friends Gutsy and Dan along the way. We stopped and chatted a while. Up comes Lone Ranger, our first time meeting. Had lunch with him at Sassafras Gap shelter. Pressed on to the Bald, at over 5,000 feet. Rich sat eating his lunch, and Three-Day. This trail is a social event, no doubt. Crossing Sweetwater Creek Road, I met a lively bunch of teenagers. Actually, they lay taking in some sunshine, but when I got down to the grassy area, we had time to talk and enjoy their enthusiasm. A man, their leader, gave me water, and extended an invitation to stay for their cookout. It was so tempting, these Jolly Rangers were so kind, but I felt the 14 miles before Monday afternoon would have been too challenging. So, regretfully I pressed on, and made the shelter. The climb out of that Stecoah Gap is nothing to sneeze at. A number of daunting climbs and desents come within those last 2.5 miles. Caught up to Smurf, and met Hawkeye (I would love to just call him the Leprecon Man)

Only three of us at that shelter, and no mice that I could see. Corncob made us a wonderful little campfire, Three–Day hung his 19 pounds of food for Hot Springs, and we read and wrote in the register. Lights out at 8:30. Slept great.

April 8-
Corncob and I are early risers. We cooked and ate breakfast while Three-Day continued to snooze. Headed out by just after 7, and determined to make Hwy 28 by 2 p.m. Rainmaker knows me so well; he knows I always hike like crazy when he comes to meet me, or when I can call home. Still, several serious steep hills await, but sections of gentle trail also. Made the Cable Gap shelter by 10, and met Samaratin. There is "A-Privy-With-A-Door" there. Very nice! Strider pulled in. Then Moosewood and Salamander. It’s like reunion time. Then we headed up the hill, bound for town, with all of its contrivances and luxuries. Clouds and rain threatened all day, and the thunderstorms are predicted for tomorrow. Once again, my zero day will be a rainy one, and I laugh with satisfaction thinking of the little rain I have seen trail wise thus far. 11.6 miles.

Reaching Hwy 28, I promptly sit down beside the road, and begin making coffee as I wait for Rain. Some hikers begin hitching to town; others head towards the “Hilton” a huge shelter just before the dam. Ah, but that will wait, as I head home for a day of rest. Rainmaker pulls up, and this one Spoiled Hiker hops in the car, to speed off for pizza, and black liquorish.

April 10-
Yesterday was a zero day. Today I, started at Hwy 28, near Fontana Dam, crossed below to the parking lot at the marina, and picked up my Smokies National Park permit. There, many friends had just gotten off the van, which shuttles from Fontana Village. I, the spoiled rotten hiker had spent the zero day at home. Greetings exchanged with hiking friends, and we were off again, up the hill, past the “Hilton” and onto the road leading up to the dam.

Hiking with Corncob, Wonder and Charlie Foxtrot. The rare heat and sunshine make this day seem hard. I complain about my pack weight. Something just doesn’t feel right. Charlie threatens to trade with me. I give a good loud hearty laugh. Oh sure. I don’t think I could get his off the ground. We leap frogged along, arriving at Birch Spring Gap. There the shelter has been dismantled, but tent sites remain. We go down for water, the last we will find for 5 miles.

Passed Mollies Ridge Shelter, and looked in. It was my first glimpse of a Smokies Shelter. My goodness! A stone three sided shelter, with a chain link fence reaching the roof making the forth side. Inside, an aged double decker shelving, with slats nailed on to make individual spaces, reminded me of the Amistad slave ship. No, don’t get me wrong. This is Bad Bear territory, and I will definitely want a slot. A dirt floor inside, in front of the fence, and fireplace at one end, completed the shelter. Outside are a fire ring, logs for sitting, and grassy area big enough for many tents. Signs pointed the path to water, and the path in the opposite direction to the toilet area. Wow. As we hiked on, I had plenty to think about. 2.5 to Russell Field Shelter. Do I want a top bunk? Or a bottom? No way will I sleep next to a stone wall, whose crevices make mouse condos.

We arrived about 5:30, and claimed a top bunk. Poptart, and Geek are already there. After eating, our food bags were hung on the cables 30 feet off the ground. Everything else was brought inside the shelter. Packs were hung on the inside of the fence. Our water bottles were set around inside the fortress. The southbounder had a 6-liter platypus, which he hung outside on the fence, about 5 feet from the ground. Smurf told us all a bedtime story once we settled down. Off to dream land. About 11 p.m. it started raining; a steady drenching rain. A couple hours later it lulled, and I head a big Whoosh, and thought, “Who is tenting out there, dumping the water off his fly?” Then there was some banging around. Quietness again, and back to sleep.

It’s not always easy getting out and dressed with a shelter full of hikers, especially when they are all male! I learn how to change inside my sleeping bag, then stuff the mass which is my gear into my silpack, and go outside to eat breakfast. As I eat, the southbounder comes out to get some water from his platypus.

“What in the Hell?” he exclaims. His water bag is empty. It still hangs on the fence, but a large nearly perfect hole, about 7 inches in diameter, has appeared. All that remains are teeth marks. “I paid $18 for this thing! A bear bit a hole in my bag!” He shows us, and rehangs it. Then he leaves to get more water, and I go over and pick up a chunk of ragged plastic off the ground.

“That must have been the water being dumped you heard last night, Brawny” Charlie says.

I guess a bag is a bag, and if it’s hanging on a chain link fence, it’s liable to be taken for a food bag, fair game to camp-taught bears. “Momma said this was the cafeteria and where I can eat,” perhaps the bear is thinking “Lunch!” And a drenching was all he got.

This morning, I put the bulk of my food in the bottom of my pack, just leaving snack food on top. The food is the heavy stuff. Oh yeah, as I put on my pack things are right again. I hardly feel the weight. The cool morning makes trekking easy, and I am feeling great. On trail by 7:20.

Met Malice at Derrick Knob Shelter. He has some very interesting stories, listens well, and laughs readily. We hiked out together, chatting. I think that’s what made the 5.5 miles to Siler’s Bald Shelter go so fast. Arriving at 3:20, we had plenty of time to relax, tease other friends pulling in later, and get a good night’s rest. The shelter was plenty full, with about 12 people.

Smurf again gave us our bedtime story, a mixture of hilarity, self-reflection, good-natured picking, and red neck humor. 14.7 miles today.

April 12-
First out of the shelter, and on trail, hiking for Newfound Gap and my trail angel, Rainmaker. Mist and light rain fell all day, and I was determined to get up and over Clingmans Dome. At 6643 feet, the highest point on the AT, before the thunder began to roll.

Arrived around 1:30, ate lunch in the bathroom, washing up with the hand sanitizer in dispensers on the wall. 12 .5 miles. How sweet to have a 6 stall, flush toilet, and 5 sinks with running water all to myself. Putting on my dry fleece, I felt down right respectable. Combed the hair. Nice. I don’t think the groups of tourist ladies who came in later, felt that way, as they gave me sideways glances, and I felt a little cornered. Is that normal?

Rainmaker knows me so well, that in spite of the 5 p.m. time agreed on, he is there at 3 p.m. I had put a string on the wall outside the lady’s bathroom, where I had holed up during the rain, and he knew I had arrived. A good long hug, kisses, and we are off in the Blue Rocket for an AYCE salad bar and resupply.

April 14-
Resumed the trail this morning after a zero day yesterday. It’s really hard leaving a warm dry car and heading out into the rain and mud. It was already 9 a.m. and with no place to stop for a decent break (Peck’s Corner shelter is half a mile off trail) so I just hiked non-stop. Some south bounding weekenders told me they had passed 10 thru hikers already. Surely one of them was a friend! By early afternoon I had passed the shelter and met a very nice young ranger. We talked a bit, and I offered to show him my permit. For some reason, rangers just never care about seeing my permits. He declined, and the mist made that nice, since I didn’t have to dig it out of my pocket.

Arrived at Tri Corner Knob Shelter just a bit after 4. Corncob, Wanderer, Sidewinder, all friends, stayed there too. Some section hikers were already there, and one named Eric gave me some hot hazelnut coffee. Now, that hits the spot. We cooked where we could and settled down for a nice dry night in spite of the pounding rain on the roof. This shelter has water very near, and a privy. Plusses, if you can choose your shelter. 15.6 miles.

April 15-
Packed and on trail first again, in light mist. It’s cool, but favorable for good hiking. I have decided to do cold breakfast because it’s just so much more efficient. Seems everyone is heading to Mountain Mommas today, one and a half miles off trail, just past the Davenport Shelter. One thing certain, we are all enjoying the National Park, but glad to be out of it, with its permits and cages. After an early lunch at Cosby Shelter, I met Corncob and Wanderer lunching trailside. We all were feeling great, and decided to trek long today, passing Davenport, but not going to Mommas. None of us wanted to walk down the gravel road that cars don’t travel. No sense hitchhiking when no traffic passes.

Someone had read about a new hostel, out of their Thru-Hiker's Companion book last night. So, with that memory in mind, Corncob and I hiked on. It was hot, and we were sweating freely. Crossed under I-40, then up that hill nestled between the curves of Waterville School Road. There, at the northern crossing was a rock with painted signs. Yes. We had arrived. 200 yards east. A red pick up truck is coming; we flagged him down, and importuned a ride those last 200 yards. A rotwiler greets us, barking threateningly, as we drop down out of the bed of the truck. No worries, Corncob is just so glad to be here, with promise of showers, bunks, and who knows, maybe some food. We paid $12 for the wooden bunk beds, showers and laundry. A phone and Internet access is available. Tonight, Marie decides to cook, so its AYCE spaghetti, garlic bread, ice cold beverages and strawberry shortcake for $7 . We hikers do justice to her superb cooking. We eat at the wrap around porch, on real plates, drinking out of real full size glasses. I use a fork. Then a spoon for desert. Nice. Very Nice.

Met a lot of young people whose entries in the registers I had been reading, including Arrow, Elvis, Gator Girl, Girl Next Door, Scooby, Condiments, Strongbird.

18.1 miles. Hey, that last tenth of a mile was hard, and I am recording it!

April 16-
All last night I worried about falling off that top bunk. And the night had its humor, as two hikers did the “cross-cut saw” duet, snoring in such harmony, when one took a breath, the other filled the void. At one point a cook pot fell from a top bunk. All noise ceased for five minutes. Then normality set in once again. Corncob also had a top bunk, and as he tossed and turned, he spoke in his sleep. Not all of it is repeatable for mixed company.

At last dawn broke, and with it the packing and eating and getting back on trail. With several decent climbs ahead, and a warm day promising, I got an early start. Passed two couples who were camped, picked up water and continued climbing. It steadily became hotter. Took a break at Ground Hawk Creek Shelter and decided to go for the next shelter, Roaring Fork.

The data sheets don’t show it, so we were concerned about water after that Brown Gap Road crossing. Good heavens, once you get to the south side (Max Patch Road) there is plenty of water to be had, as one crosses stream after stream, first just before the summit, and then afterwards heading to the shelter. Max Patch is a marvel. You can see it a couple miles ahead, this grassy bald extending for I suppose, thousands of acres. One must follow the fence posts, now marked with white blazes as you climb, then cross and descend that mountain. Views are 360 degrees, and the marvelous Blue Mountains, which are now home, take one's breath away. But, one dark thundercloud looms straight overhead, and not wanting to be struck by lightning, I continue on. One foreign couple is dining on top, wine bottle and all. They are amazed anyone would be walking so long. Van supported, they insist, looking at the size of my pack. I assure them no.

As I descend, and hike on, the thunder begins. A few rain drops. Roaring Fork shelter, Where Are You? Hike hike hike. Finally, a glimpse across the gap. Yes, and a privy. No signs of humans. I arrive before 5, happy and pleased with this clean, well-planned shelter with a skylight, and “table”. I read the register, spreading out my gear to cook. A newspaper, the New York Times, April 3rd, is there. A good read. Hey didja know that Michael Jordon was out for the season with a knee injury?

An hour later Corncob comes rolling in with a whoop. We chat, wondering about Wanderer. Sure enough, just before dark, he comes strolling in. I laugh at their banter, and settle down for a warm night's sleep. 18.5 miles. Satisfying.

April 17-
Well, here I am, a day ahead of schedule. With Hot Springs just 15.2 miles away, I figure to get in early, call my Rainmaker, and see if he can drive up today. I have earned two zero days, and I would just as soon enjoy them at home, one last time. Then it will be time to get serious.

To say I hurried would do injustice to the inner struggle to enjoy the scenery, preserve perspective and avoid killing my knees. The dogwoods are gorgeous against the dark firs, the blue mountains and bright spring leaves. The trail rolls up, over and around these hills, yet always descending to the valley at just over 1300 feet. The humidity increases, and anticipation of air conditioning quickens the step. As I pass the side trail into the last shelter, Deer Park Mountain, I notice a smaller trail to the left. In a tiny clearing is a ring of rocks, and two head stones. I go in, and read them. A couple, names now forgotten, lay buried there. “Absent not Dead” reads one. “Absent not Forgotten” reads the other. There is something here, and it speaks to the inner being. We reassure each other that we will not be forgotten, and will never forget. Let no one pass through our world and not be mourned upon their departure.

Three miles remain to Hot Springs, a slow teasing descent as one can view the town now.This town is way bigger than I thought. I arrive, hike down the road following the blazes just above the sidewalk. I find a phone, call home while I yet wear my pack. Ah yes! My life partner will be here in a few hours. Time to check out the town, stop in the thrift store and barter awhile, have a cold soda, do the post office. Life is good. Freedom is fine. But love’s what its all about.

April 18 & 19 were spent at home.

April 20-
Left Hot Springs about 11:30 in spite of the festival there. It is always hard saying good bye to my life partner, Rainmaker, and perhaps more so today because I won't be home until I finish this trail. Now, "home " is where my pack is, and every night a new place.

Hiked 11 miles up to Spring Mountain Shelter, where I met Milkshake, her husband Cheeseburger, and friend Greyhound. Preston, their dog, was very friendly, and loved the notion of so many chipmunks just waiting to be chased. We all survived the Night Of The Mouse, extra frisky in this shelter. Preston nestled up close to my shoulder, like old friends.

April 21-
We all are early risers, but Milkshake and Cheeseburger didn't expect too many miles today, so Greyhound and I hiked almost the entire day together. He is a philosopher and basketball player, which gives you a clue of my day. We snacked while we hiked, chatting about various things. Before long, 21.2 miles had passed, and we elected to camp, albeit early at Flint Mountain Shelter. Only 3:30. That shelter was the best I had seen in many days, and it was great to enjoy the little rabbit hopping around near the fire ring. Long hair lay in piles there. Ah, the register explains all. One girl elected to have her head shaved.

April 22-
It poured a lot during the night and there was much thunder. We packed up as ususal though, and hiked off into the light rain. Cooler than normal, and windy, but at least the climbs were easier. Hiked down to Hogback Ridge Shelter, where we had an early break. Then we passed over Big Bald. I nearly was blown off, and it was cold as well. At Bald Mountain Shelter, we took a break, and signed the registers. There Greyhound sprung his idea, how about going for No Buisness Shelter. Hunh? thats 10.3 more miles. I am not supposed to arrive in Erwin until Wednesday morning. But, again, it was early, so with all my gear, why not? I can camp whenever. We hiked, climbing, chatting, munching, until Spivey Gap. Only 4.7 to go, so although I saw other campers off in that grassy meadow, thought, yeah, why not. Just about 7:15 we got to the shelter. Friends of Greyhound made room for us. Very sweet, 29.6 miles.

April 23-
Hiked the 6 miles into town, saw Charlie Foxtrot just before he pulled out, and got into the hostel at Miss Janets. Will have this day and next to rest, resupply and plan my next section. Feeling very strong, and ready. A huge thanks to my dear friend, Splash, for the phone card that allowed me to call home today. She is truely knowlegeable about hiker needs. She has always been a wonderful support person, last year as well as this year.

Unfortunately, there is a "town-war" going on between Johnny and Ms. Jannet. Some hikers have wisely just resupplied and headed back out, some stayed at the Holiday Inn, and others staying at one place or another became the pawns in a "turf war".

April 24 was spent resting and resupplying in Erwin, TN.

April 25 –
Left the gorge and hiked 16.2 miles up to Cherry Gap Shelter. It’s amazingly cold tonight and I am nervous because I have swapped out my 20 degree bag for my summer system. Thank goodness I still have my fleece pants!

Hiking through Unaka Mtn. Pine Forest was very sweet, but a little difficult navigating, though. Pine needles carpeted the area evenly and the trail was faint.

April 26 -
It was a very cold night last night. I swapped out my sleep systems. The tarp probably made all the difference (even with condensation forming, I was warm). By early morning I could feel the moisture seeping through my fleece. By 6:30 I was on trail. The shelter being full, I packed quickly. After a couple of miles on trail, I began to fear I’d left stuff at the shelter. In my pack, nothing was where it was supposed to be. My data book, tent stakes, bandana were all “missing”. It was a very lousy start and I chided myself a hundred times for being so hasty. I left without breakfast, just throwing stuff in the pack so I could get warm hiking. I found my stakes, and later when I went to my food bag, there was my data book! Tonight I found my bandana! All is well. As an ultralighter, these things are dearly missed, and next time I will take more care.

The hike up and over Roan Mountain, was so very cold. There was ice on trail, along with 15 inch long icicles hanging from rocks. I got to “The Barn” (Overland Mtn. Shelter). A wonderful bunch of young men are here, and they are so friendly. I have the loft to myself. They are downstairs. Did 21.6 miles. Note: Granola cooked with powdered milk and extra sugar make a fine hot supper!

April 27 -
Hiked over The Humps. They were just gorgeous, but I almost lost my pack cover due to the wind. We hiked through cow pastures and it was very windy. I read the registers, hoping to catch up to my friends, clouds threaten, and we get some sprinkles, but I am bound for Laurel Creek Lodge, hot food, a bunk and friends. There is another hostel, but it has no food. This one is fantastic. Greyhound is here, along with Panama, Milkshake and Cheeseburger. Runaway pulls in at 9:00, doing 20 miles after an AYCE breakfast in Elk Park. Saw 3 deer. Hiked 28.3 miles.

April 28 –
Greyhound, Panama and I left around 8:00, in spite of weather forecasts of tornadoes and golf ball-size hail. It was hot and humid and frankly the few sprinkles were very welcome. 50 miles remain to Damascus and we plan to hike it in 3 days. The trail started today with a murderous climb out of Denison (not sure of spelling here) Cove, then topped out. Then there was a lovely descent toward Watauga Lake Shelter. Why people slack this southbound is beyond me. We picked up water at the nearly dried up spring because there is no water at Vandeveter Shelter. Hiking fast to beat the impending storm and to insure a safe spot inside, we arrived about 4:00 after hiking 17.8 miles. The lightning flashed and clouds passed on either side of our ridge shelter. Then there was a steady downpour. Other hikers pulled in, hanging their packs and setting up tents and a hammock. The shelter was already overfilled, and the guys only cared that their packs were dry.

April 29 -
Got up early and headed out because it turned cold during the night. Had a Snickers bar for breakfast. Had a determination to hike slower, whatever the day would bring. A huge crow sat in the grass, yelling at me as I hiked by. Girls still asleep in the first shelter 7 miles away. Camping AT hikers brushing their teeth. The wind was chilly and made for fast hiking. Greyhound had passed me early on, and I saw Panama at lunch at the Double Spring Shelter. There we talked about Damascus and what awaited. Why not make a try for Damascus? Got to the Abeyton (not sure of spelling) Shelter and there sat Greyhound. I said I was going in to Damascus, and he said he’d try it, too. We waited for Panama and did the fastest 10 miles ever for a 33 mile day. Pizza and soda! A warm bunk at “The Place”! Thank God for trail angels.

April 30 & May 1 were spent resting and resupplying in nearby Abington, VA.

Somehow this section has been harder for me. I am not sure why, so I simply celebrate the fact that I have made it this far. I look forward to the section coming, the Shenandoahs, and Harper’s Ferry. The wet and unexpected cold has taken a toll, and I am ready to get my winter gear back! We hike north with spring, and occasionally with winter, I guess. One good thing; looks like we have beaten the summer heat!

May 29-
Hiked the 8.6 into Harper's Ferry, stopping by the ATC for photos and signing in. I am thru hiker number 148 this year. The folks there are the greatest. It's so nice talking to people who love the Appalachian Trail. Sharing a room at the Comfort Inn with Radio Flyer and Smudge, two other hikers. This is all very comfortable; not sure how long we're staying here.

* * * * * * * * * * * * *
Games soloists play:

Gorp According To Blazes - Daily allotment of gorp in sandwich baggie placed in pocket. Eat a small bite. Chew slowly. Swallow. Pass 3 blazes before you take another hand full.

Hiker Factor - Time how long between human sightings. Some days, it’s about every 3 hours. Sometimes it’s only once a day.

No Thought Game – Time how long you can go between thoughts. No thinking. Each soloist must set their own parameters here. “When is the last time I saw a blaze?” counts as a thought for me. Your brain is just supposed to register blazes without thinking.

Plan Next Resupply – Plan both for ounces and calories. Obtain these figures then divide by days and multiply by miles. Subtract from your age. Add to your IQ. Start over.


While playing my new game “How Long Does It Take To Pass 100 Blazes?” I was counting 34, we have 34,34 and going on 35, we have thirty- fi . . . . and suddenly along the narrow, bramble-bordered trail, comes a southbound Black bear. We both stop. We eye each other. I go into scare-the-bear mode, clanking my hiking poles together. He is not impressed. Time for a new tactic. I tell him, “I need to come this way”. He turns his head, takes a bite of grass and brambles. He is probably thinking, “Is that it, girl? Is that all you got?” I tell him, “Hey, bear, I need to use the trail, but I know you do, too”. The bear looks at me; then shakes his head. I note the tagged right ear, and fight back thoughts of “Bad-Ass Bear”. Taking several steps back, talking, clicking my poles, the bear starts walking towards me. My god, do I jump in the weeds quickly, hoping he passes by like a day hiker? The gut rebels at this horrid thought, and I start yelling, “Alright! No more Mr. Nice Guy, do you want me to rock you? Get out of here!!” I stop and pick up a rock, all I can find is one that weighs about 5 pound-size. Where are all the rocks in Pennsylvania when you really need one?? I see the bear jump off into the weeds to the left and I decide that’s good enough. " Attaboy!" I yell “I believe in peaceful co-existence, just like you!” I keep talking as I pass and I keep looking sideways. He gets back on the trail. But the passage of two beings was done without bloodshed.

Later, the trail was rerouted around a bridge that is being painted today. Hiked at least 18 miles to the wonderful 501 Shelter. We plan to order pizza tonight, there is a phone next door. Lots of bunks in a regular building, with plenty of good reading material, a big table, and shower outside. Hikers pull in late.

June 8 -
Hiked 23.7 miles and then .5 to the pavilion in Port Clinton. The trail definitely is rocky past 501 Shelter. The outfitter’s store is just .3 off the trail, and has food, gear, ice cream and apparently the only phone available to thru-hikers in Port Clinton. There are no pay phones anywhere. I feel a bit “whooped”, but still hope to get to Delaware Water Gap in 4 days. The outfitter weighs my pack with 4 days of food at 14 pounds. He is impressed and realizes no easy sales here.

June 9 -
Saw 2 rattlesnakes today; one was huge. However, it saw me before I saw it, and thankfully it began rattling like nuts. I hadn’t seen it, even though it was only 10 feet in front of me. My attention was gained, and then I saw the second one. I bushwhacked around both of them. Did 32.6 miles to Bake Oven Shelter. It was built in 1937. It is small, but other than the lone deer eating and nosing around, I seem to have it all to myself. This trail, up and through cliff rocks, is not funny. I slid into a tree and scraped my elbow clear down to my wrist. It’s bleeding, and I count myself lucky to have survived in good shape.

June 10 -
Hiked 23.5 miles to Leroy Smith Shelter. Met Squaw and Blackhawk, and enjoy a good break chatting with them. The water is scarce and I hate to think what it will be like for those who follow. This area really needs some rain. The rock scramble out of Palmerton was maddening and very dangerous. Not all hikers are 6’ 2”. If it had been raining, or my pack had been heavy, I don’t know that I would have been able to make it.

June 11 -
Hiked the last 20.4 miles of Pennsylvania, into Delaware Water Gap. I left at 5 a.m and arrived ten minutes past noon. Not really sure how I did that, but the post office had just closed for its lunch break, so I went to the motel and got a room. Rainmaker sent my ultralight radio here, and Mother Nature sent some candy. So fine! Spending the night at the Ramada Inn. Went out to dinner with Squaw and Blackhawk, thru hiker friends I met yesterday.

June 12 -
Stayed in Delaware Water Gap until after 11 a.m., dreading leaving my friends, saying good-bye to Rainmaker on the phone and then heading out once again into the unknown. My radio works great (Rainmaker sent it to me) and I love it, but it began to rain, so I had to put it away. I’m nervous about the bears, but didn’t see a one. The trail is indeed rocky. Staying tonight at the Mohican Outdoor Center. It is way better than the Doyle Hotel in Duncannon. Food and snacks are available. Paid $12 for a bunk in a large, carpeted cabin. A phone (called home), plenty of bathrooms and showers are also available, plus the use of a real kitchen with coffee maker. Did 10.3 miles.

June 13 -
Hiked 21 miles to Glen Anderson Shelter. Thankful to have made enough noise in the rain and fog to have seen no bears. Had a cheeseburger at the tavern that is just 3 miles from the shelter, and only .2 off trail down the highway. Met Christopher Robin and Stout, 2 other thru-hikers. It has improved my morale to have someone of like mind to camp with. Did some sewing on my shoes and hope they last until I get to Kent, CT, which is 140 miles away.

June 14 -
Hiked 18 miles and caught up to Hammock Hanger, who was taking a zero day. Great time! Love chatting girl / hiker talk. It poured rain absolutely all day long.

June 15 -
Resupplied at Unionville. Unfortunately, the diner was closed, so I continued hiking all day. Past Vernon (.1 mile off the trail) is a great little pastry and fruit stand. Determined not to leave the shop til I was stuffed, I ate 3 pastries, two bananas, 24 ounces of hot coffee and a great ice cream waffle cone. Great Snack! Hiked 19 miles to Wawayanda Shelter. Spent the night with the New Jersey ridge runner.

June 16 -
Awoke to drenching rain. This is the fifth day of it, and I have 3 choices. I can either do 12 miles to a shelter, do 20 miles and hitch to Arden, or do a 26 mile day to another shelter. I think I will opt for the short day and insure sleeping dry tonight. I’m tired and a short day will help after past maniac-mile days. Later: Saw a Black snake, several deer and a loud, mouthy crow. I made it through NJ without a bear sighting. Yeah! The radio had a weather alert, reports of tornado sighting and various other warnings as the thunder rolled. Take cover, they said. I looked at the boulders and trees. Sure. The white blazes take us over Pinnacle and Cat Rocks. After a measly 12 miles, my right knee is killing me after hauling myself up and over to remain a purist. The blue-blaze trail at the base of these boulders make more sense, but I try to remain a purist and this choice defines my hike. I slipped badly at one point. The register reports the same for many others. Trail routers take note: We are not 5 year old boys out on a lark!

June 17 -
The trail from Wildcat Shelter to NY 17 (Arden) is 10 miles worth of hills and ravines graded for mountain goats. It really wore me out. Because of recent rains, water has been plentiful. The second 10 miles were pleasant, grassy and well graded. Did a total of 20 miles to William Brien Memorial Shelter.

Some young men, over nighters, are there and they greet me kindly. Other long distance hikers pull in, and we five enjoy a campfire.

A Poem, Commemorating this night:

Returning to the Trail

Hot and humid weather is draining. Looking into the skies, the haze just seems to taunt me. Please rain, please just rain and cool off. Met a group of little girls with a couple adults hiking up to Holts Ledge. They warned me of scant water ahead. Please rain, I silently begged the trail gods. Just as I crossed Lyme Dorchester Road, the thunder began to roll, the wind picked up. Climbing Smarts Mountain was cool in the rain. The open rock faces were a bit scary in the lightning, but no longer did I struggle in the heat. I ducked into the shelter on top, and read that Hoosier and Cheddar had just left, lunching there. Only 5 more miles to Hexacuba. Met Phoenix, Greenbean, Hoosier and Cheddar. How sweet to have thru hikers to share such a beautiful shelter with. The privy was an insulting .2 uphill. Take a snack and water bottle on your way. 28.7 miles today.

July 24-
Hiked 15 miles into Glencliff and ate lunch at a great little café called Calamity Jane’s, in the nearby town of Warren. Resupplied from the rare post office drop, which included an extra few clothes for the Whites. We are only taking 4 days of food due to consistent reports by south bounders of the abundance of food found at the huts in the Whites. Hiked another mile to Jeffers Shelter and enjoyed the evening with Phoenix, Geek, Giggles, and Highwater.

July 25
From Jeffers Mt. Shelter to Eliza Brook Shelter, the last of the free shelters in the Whites. Signs have warned us of no camping and $8 a night for what we used to do for free. Hiked with Phoenix all day, over very rugged but beautiful trail. Lots of thru hikers pulled in tonight, including ATR who serenaded us with his guitar tonight. So fine. The camp is full. 15.9 miles.

July 26-
The first hut proved the rumors true. For $1 we ate all the breakfast and coffee we wanted. Apple-blueberry crisp, left from last night, was available as well. They let us take a wedge of homemade bread with us for lunch too. Hiked to a stealth camp about 2 miles south of the Garfield Campsite. Wonderful day of views over Little Haystack Mt, Mt Lincoln, and Mt Lafayette. 16.5 miles. Camped with Greenbean and Phoenix.

July 27-
Camped at Ethan Pond Campsite after a 17-mile day. The last from Zealand Hut was smooth and fast. We caught up to Papa Geezer, paid our $8 each to camp and shared an old shelter.

We had packed up in the fog this early morning, hiked to Galehead Hut and ate breakfast for $2. The coffee was hot, and the blueberry coffee cake, scrambled eggs and oatmeal was satisfying. When we hit Zealand Hut we scored the last 3 bowls of soup, with pie and cake for dessert. This hot food is welcome addition to our food supplies. By packing light, Phoenix and I are on Food Prowl Patrol, enjoying light packs. Greenbean elected to carry 6 days of food, but still enjoys the fresh food at the huts.

July 28-
Left Ethan Pond Campsite before 6 a.m. Found trail magic doughnuts, soda and peanut brittle. Ate pancakes and coffee at Mizpah Hut for $1. The crew there was mopping and cleaning, so gave us a pan of pancakes, gallon of syrup, and pitcher of coffee to enjoy in the fresh air. They donned aprons over their butt naked bodies, turned up the music and had one helluva good time. I love to see the enthusiasm of young folks just having way too good of a time. Phoenix and I want a work-for-stay at the Lake of the Clouds Hut, so we kept our steady pace, arriving after our 14-mile day by 12:30. We scored it, and shall begin duties around three.

This place is crowded with people of good finances. Bright colors, perfumes, and fancy gear crowd the walls. Hikers of every destination pull in. Later, we are put to work, us thru hikers who don’t want to pay $8 to sleep in The Dungeon, and could use a good hot supper. We fill the condiments; help set the table, wash dishes. Finally we eat with the crew, getting a taste of the stuffed pasta, but no veggies, save the two pots of bean soup. Hummm, all the veggies and salad are history but we are okay with soup. No crackers or bread, but some fantastic poppy seed cake with a buttery frosting. At 9:30 the final guests are ushered out of our “bedroom”, the tables they have eaten on. We hikers spread out pads, bags, and get to bed much later than normal. Lights out.

July 29-

Determined to eat with our friends, Phoenix and I set table, pack everything, and just file in at meal call. The weather report is not good:winds 50 mph and gusting, visibility 30 feet. It is lightly raining at times. Because of the wind it feels like sleet, but the temps they tell us are in the 50s. Papa Geezer has been up here many times. He is somber, and tells us of the bad weather route, the Golf Slide Trail, that goes to Madison Hut. The official white blazes go up to Washington Summit. I am determined to do the white blazes. I have hiked alone, I say, in worse.

Papa Geezer leads with his wooden staff, I follow, Greenbean is next, then Phoenix. At first I am perplexed by the seriousness on Papa’s face. We start hiking; he waits for every one of us three to catch up. The tread is nothing but boulders, and there are very few blazes, some of them yellow. As we head up the mountain, it worsens remarkably. I am knocked sideways, and struggle to stay on my feet. Our pack covers threaten to fly away, and we stop to tie them on, hooking them to the pack, and around. “Everyone ok?” Papa Geezer asks. An affirmative nod of our heads. We continue hiking, the visibility worsens, and Papa stops to analyze each cairn we pass. Phoenix is afflicted with several bouts of diarrhea, and we wait for him. The more we gain in elevation, the more concerned I become about doing this alone. There are so many intersecting trails, and the AT is poorly marked, if at all. After 45 minutes, we reach the trail junction with the AT and the Golf Slide Trail.

“Its decision time” Papa Geezer tells us, as we huddle close to hear him above the wind. We are all purists, and strong hikers. We look up the mountain. “It will get worse, stronger winds, less visibility. I don’t think its safe, but if you want to go, I will go” Papa says in a dead serious tone.

“I can’t call it” I tell them, and turn my face aside. I know if I go, they all will go. Greenbean begins swearing ferociously, Phoenix looks really worried. None of us have taken any alternate trails, no bad weather, and no high water. We have hiked hard and strong. We stood together now, all old enough to recognize our mortality. Fighting back tears of frustration and disappointment I say, “If there ever was a need for a bad weather trail it’s now, today”. We realized we were already at our limits now and to tempt the half-mile up another 500 feet was not reasonable. We swear, vent our frustration, and decide to press on to Madison Hut on the Golf Slide Trail.

The wind picks up, buffets us as we inch our way those 7 miles. We stop a moment to get our breaths, and start to see some others from the Madison Hut making their way to Lake of the Clouds. We exchange reports with them, realizing it doesn’t get any better. A sign reports we have come but 3.2 miles. Then another reports in the last half hour we made only .2. This upsets me, but Papa Geezer smiles and says “There are too many signs on this trail, Brawny, don’t think of the numbers.” How he is finding this trail over rocks and boulders, cairn to cairn, I don’t know. I can barely see him ahead of me.

Finally we reach Madison Hut around 12:30. We have struggled nearly 5 hours and come in to find a happy young cook with a huge pot of bean curry soup, chocolate cake, fresh bread, and pumpkin cake, hot coffee and hot cocoa. May the trail gods bless all such cooks, and their lives be long and merry. We eat our fill and hear the reports that it is sunny and warm below. Our goal is Pinkham Notch, where there are bunks, hot showers, AYCE supper and breakfast for $50. Papa Geezer’s wife is meeting him, and they have reservations. Just one mile down, into the trees and things get much better, we are told.

Back in the howling winds, up the half-mile to the summit of Mt. Madison. The climbing is reduced to hand over hand, ducking down between boulders, hanging on in the gusts of nearly 70 mph. I shorten my poles, snagging the straps on my left hand, and crawl, hands and knees. On the top, I feel overwhelmed, and sympathize with the fly on the windshield of a car hurling down the highway at 70 mph. It ain't gonna get better till you get down, you gotta move, reverberates in my head. Greenbean is slender and tall, her pack catching the wind, falling, struggling. Phoenix blown several feet off trail. Picked up like some toy soldier. And all the while, Papa Geezer leading us, waiting, struggling too, but it seems to me he was the sanity of a Moses through the wilderness.

By 3 p.m. we finally get into the trees, with only 5 miles to Pinkham Notch. We arrive there at 6:30, book a room, and go for supper. We are late, but the cook sends out food for us, family style. It is gourmet, and we marvel at the other thru hikers there who come over to exchange reports. They had hiked out earlier this morning, arriving at the Washington summit, and were stranded. There they had waited for hours and finally hitched rides down with tourists who were happy for the extra weight in the car. Tomorrow they will make a decision to go back up, or wait out yet another day of storm. A woman had broken her leg and had to be carried out to the top, where she could be transported down. 14.4 miles today.

July 30-
Hiked a mere 13 miles to Imp Campsite Shelter. I will be glad to quit paying $8 a night for a shelter spot. Lots of steep ascents and descents. We left this morning in the rain, and the other thru hikers holed up at Pinkham Notch elected to take a zero day. Wildcat Mountains offer some great views and challenging terrain. Knees are still sensitive from the Whites, but this is common to all who pass this way.

July 31-
Hiked a fast 8 miles to New Hampshire 16, hitched into Gorham where we resupplied and called Rainmaker’s cell phone, leaving voice mail. I listened to his message to me, and miss him incredibly. He is doing well on the Long Trail, and we will be together soon. Had a good meal and headed back out, our foursome still intact. Hiked to Tri Col Campsite, for a 15-mile day.

Stepping Into Maine